A Guide to Cleaning Household Surfaces
Butcher Block
Use: A few drops of mild detergent, like dishwashing liquid, and warm water. (If coated with urethane or polyurethane, follow care instructions for Hardwood Cabinets).
Tools: A cloth or sponge.
Tips: After cleaning, rinse with plain water and pat dry. Water left on the surface will stain. Replace boards that have cracks, as bacteria can grow there. Sanitize with a slice of lemon, not bleach, which is unsafe around food.
Tough stains: Unlike most surfaces, butcher blocks can be professionally sanded.
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Ceramic Tile
Use: For glazed tiles, one capful of isopropyl alcohol in one gallon of water. For unglazed tile, like terra-cotta, a few drops of dishwashing liquid.
Tools: A cloth or mop.
Tips: Rinse with water and a clean cloth. Avoid oil soaps or ammonia, which will yellow grout. Avoid vinegar, which will damage grout.
Tough stains: Use a scraper or putty knife to remove stubborn debris. Use a nylon scrubbing pad dampened with dishwashing liquid to remove stains from grout. Apply grout sealer twice a year to prevent stains.
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Granite
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid and warm water.
Tools: A cloth, sponge, or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum stone floors regularly; stone surfaces are susceptible to damage from grit. Rinse with a clean, soft cloth. Apply a penetrating sealer, available at stone dealers and home centers, every two to three years to prevent deep stains. Avoid abrasive cleansers, which can scratch, and ammonia and nonchlorine bleach, which can dull the surface.
Tough stains: Use a ready-made poultice, available at stone dealers.
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Limestone
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid and warm water.
Tools: A cloth, sponge, or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum up grit regularly. Rinse floors and dry with a clean cloth. Apply a sealer, available at stone dealers and home centers, to countertops every year and to floors every two years to prevent deep stains. Don't use abrasive cleansers, which can scratch, vinegar, or lemon-based cleansers, which can etch the surface.
Tough stains: Use a ready-made poultice, available at stone dealers.
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Marble
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid and warm water.
Tools: A cloth, sponge, or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum floors regularly. Wipe up spills with a clean, soft cloth. Apply a penetrating sealer, available at stone dealers and home centers, every year to prevent deep stains. As with limestone, don't use abrasive cleansers, vinegar, and lemon-based cleansers.
Tough stains: Use a ready-made poultice, available at stone dealers.
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Slate
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid and warm water.
Tools: A soft cloth, sponge, or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum regularly. After cleaning, dry thoroughly with a clean cloth. Apply a penetrating sealer, available at stone dealers and home centers, to countertops and floors every two years to prevent deep stains. Don't use abrasive cleansers, vinegar, or lemon-based cleansers.
Tough stains: To remove soap scum, clean with ammonia and water (a half-cup of ammonia to one gallon of water).
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Soapstone
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid or all-purpose cleanser and warm water.
Tools: A soft cloth or sponge.
Tips: Rub with mineral oil every couple of weeks during the first year to help the stone oxidize (darken) evenly. Oil every two months after that.
Tough stains: Soapstone resists water, chemicals, and acids, so it rarely stains. Small scratches can be removed with fine sandpaper.
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Solid Surfacing (Corian, Avonite)
Use: A few drops or a spray of all-purpose cleanser.
Tools: A damp sponge, cloth, or soft nylon pad or brush.
Tips: Occasionally wipe matte-finish sinks with a solution of one teaspoon nonchlorine bleach and one quart hot water.
Tough tains: Rub matte finishes with a dampened green Scotch-Brite pad and baking soda. For satin finishes, use a white Scotch-Brite pad and undiluted all-purpose cleanser. For high-gloss finishes, use a one-part-vinegar to one-part-warm-water solution and a soft cloth.
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Glass
Use: Plain water.
Tools: A microfiber cloth.
Tips: For extremely dirty windows, make a solution of one part vinegar to one part warm water and use a squeegee. To reduce streaking don't clean windows in the heat of the day.
Tough stains: Rub tough streaks with crumpled newspaper and the vinegar solution.
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Plastic-Laminate Countertops and Cabinets
Use: A few drops or a spray of all-purpose cleanser.
Tools: A dampened sponge, cloth, or soft nylon pad or brush.
Tips: Rinse with a clean, damp cloth after wiping with all-purpose cleanser. Don't use a dripping-wet cloth near seams. Don't use abrasive cleansers, steel wool, or stiff brushes, which can scratch the finish.
Tough stains: Apply undiluted all-purpose cleanser, let stand, then blot with a dampened cloth.
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Hardwood Cabinets
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid or all-purpose cleanser and warm water.
Tools: A well-wrung-out cloth or sponge.
Tips: Scouring pads or powdered cleansers can damage the finish.
Tough stains: To remove grease, rub gently with a solution of dishwashing liquid and warm water. Buff lightly with a cloth.
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Porcelain and Enameled Cast Iron
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid and warm water.
Tools: A soft cloth or sponge.
Tips: Don't use abrasive pads, abrasive cleansers, or wire brushes; dirt can settle into the scratches they make.
Tough stains: Scrub with a soft nylon brush and undiluted all-purpose cleanser or a paste of baking soda and water.
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Stainless Steel
Use: Four tablespoons of baking soda dissolved in one quart of water.
Tools: A soft cloth.
Tips: Wipe dry with a clean cloth and polish with a dry cloth. Immediately wipe up acidic spills, like lemon and tomato, which can discolor the finish. Don't use abrasive cleansers or bleach, which can pit the surface.
Tough stains: Remove streaks and water spots with a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol and let air-dry.
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Mirrors
Use: Plain water.
Tools: A microfiber cloth.
Tips: For extremely dirty mirrors, make a solution of one part vinegar to one part warm water and use a squeegee. Keep water or the vinegar solution away from the edge of a mirror; moisture can seep behind the glass and cause damage.
Tough stains: Rub tough streaks with crumpled newspaper and the vinegar solution.
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Cork Flooring
Use: A few drops of dishwashing liquid or all-purpose cleanser and warm water.
Tools: A cloth, sponge, or mop that has been wrung out.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum frequently; grit can scratch the cork's finish. Don't wet mop, since water and other standing liquids will damage the floor.
Tough stains: Scrub gently with a mop dampened with dishwashing liquid.
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Hardwood Flooring
Use: A few drops of dish-washing liquid or all-purpose cleanser and warm water.
Tools: A well-wrung-out cloth, sponge, or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum frequently to remove grit. Don't wet mop; water will damage the finish. Don't apply wax to a floor coated with urethane or polyurethane. Don't apply sprays or oils meant for wood furniture; they will make floors slippery.
Tough stains: Scrub gently with a nylon pad dampened with dishwashing liquid.
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Plastic-Laminate Flooring
Use: One cup of vinegar per gallon of water.
Tools: A well-wrung-out cloth or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum frequently. Don't wet mop; water can seep into the seams and cause buckling. Don't use soap-based detergents, wax-based products, or mop-and-shine products, which leave a dull film. Don't use abrasive cleansers, which can scratch the finish.
Tough stains: Rub gently with isopropyl alcohol and a cloth. For greasy stains, use ammonia and a damp cloth.
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Vinyl Flooring
Use: One-half cup of ammonia per gallon of water.
Tools: A soft cloth or mop.
Tips: Sweep or vacuum frequently. Don't use detergents, abrasive cleansers, mop-and-shine products, or paste wax, all of which leave a film on the shiny, waxlike finish applied by the manufacturer.
Tough stains: Rub scuff marks with a nylon pad, sponge, or soft nylon brush dampened with the ammonia solution or isopropryl alcohol.