We take the guesswork out of everyone’s favorite savory pancake.
Fried potatoes are delicious, no matter which way you slice them. But perfectly cooked latkes—crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside—are nirvana. We fried up batches and batches to get the technique just right. (Oy vey!) So, master these tricks before you get grating.
Know your spuds
Yukon golds are great for potato salad and red potatoes are lovely for roasting. But when it comes time for frying, it’s russets you want to seek out. Why? These classic potatoes have the high starch content that’s necessary to make sure your pancakes don't fall apart.
Grate your potatoes
If you’re not short on time, grate your potatoes on the large holes of a box grater instead of prepping them with a food processor. The box grater will yield thinner strands, which make for wispier, crispier latkes. Placing the grater on top of a dish towel (which you’ll use to wring out the potatoes later) also helps cut down on cleanup. As for onions, it’s fine to use the food processor—since grating them is a needlessly tear-jerking experience.
Divide your shredded potatoes and onions into small batches, wrap them in a dish towel, and really give them a good wringing. The desired result is potatoes that feel dry to the touch. This step is crucial, because water inhibits the chemical reactions that occur when food gets crispy. In other words, damp potatoes = soggy latkes.
Save the starch
The water you wring from the potatoes will be packed with starch, and many cooks swear by adding a bit of it back to your latke mixture. But we found that adding a bit of flour does the same trick—and soaks up extra moisture at the same time.
Get it hot
Set your pan over medium heat and pour in an oil with a high smoke point (such as canola or vegetable). Let the pan rest for a minute or so, then drop a little clump of potato into the oil to test the temperature. If the oil sizzles, it’s hot enough for frying. Make sure to change the oil between batches if stray potato pieces remain, otherwise, they’ll burn and turn the oil bitter.
Latkes are like the rest of us: they need their space. So, when you’re dropping spoonfuls of potato into the pan, work in batches and gently spread the mounds out for lacy (read: extra crisp) latkes.
Serve them hot
Timing is everything. You can use several pans at once to cook off your latkes more quickly. At the same time, set a wire rack inside of a baking sheet and place it in a 300 degree oven. Then transfer the cooked latkes to the rack to keep them warm until the entire batch is finished.