Empty the pockets of all the clothes you're going to be putting away until next spring, then launder or dry-clean everything. Yes, even if you've only worn it once. You'll avoid stains that set before you next wear your clothes, including invisible ones from perspiration, perfume, and beverages (like white wine). "Stains become a food source for carpet beetles and moths," says Jonathan Scheer, president of J. Scheer & Co., a New York textile preservationist. "These bugs will eat through the fabric to get to the food." That's also why you should avoid starching clothes before putting them away: The starch not only feeds bugs, it can also weaken the fabric, leading to brittleness, and, in a humid environment, it can lead to permanent stains.

Always remove dry-cleaner bags as soon as you get home, since plastic doesn't allow clothes to breathe. "Whatever residual moisture is in the fiber can help mold or mildew grow," Scheer says. "And any gases emitted from the decomposing plastics can be absorbed by the fabric, accelerating the aging process. That's what causes cloth to yellow."

Don't store your clothes just anywhere. "If you remember nothing else, keep in mind that storage must be cool, dark, and dry," Scheer says. "Fabric is delicate and changes with temperature and humidity." Garages, attics, and unfinished basements are off-limits. If you have an underutilized closet or chest of drawers somewhere, or a spare room where you can keep a rolling rack, great. Otherwise, buy storage containers that fit under beds or in the top of closets. You can also pay a cleaner about $20 to $30 to hold a season's worth of clothes.

Invest in moth repellent, ideally made of cedar. "The scent repels moths and discourages them from laying eggs," Scheer says. "But I would not recommend mothballs, which are toxic and malodorous, with a smell that's almost impossible to get rid of in a timely way." Cedar, which comes in hangers, boxes, blocks, and drawer liners, should be sanded with fine-grade sandpaper after each season because otherwise the surface oxidizes, eliminating the moth-repelling scent. A self-contained area keeps the odor from dissipating.

Group clothes by fabric. Protein fibers— silks, wool, fur, suede, and leather— require the most attention because they are food for bugs in themselves. That's why they should be kept apart from plant fibers, such as cotton, linen, rayon, and ramie, which don't require as much vigilance.

Humidity and mildew can be controlled with products made for that purpose, or by using the heat of a low-power bulb, about 15 watts, to dry the air.

Acidity speeds the deterioration of fabrics. Wood is acidic. If you're storing clothes in wooden shelves or chests, even cedar, for longer than six months, Scheer advises lining them with unbleached, undyed, and washed muslin, easily found at fabric stores.

Heavy garments, as well as cashmere sweaters and beaded or sequined gowns, should be folded, with muslin or acid-neutral tissue paper to prevent creases. Canvas or muslin boxes are ideal, though pricey, because they allow air to circulate. Clear plastic containers also are an option for short-term storage--up to six months. The longer things are going to be stored, the more finicky you want to be.

Cloth garment bags are preferable to plastic for long-term storage and are essential for leathers and furs, which may crack or break off if kept in plastic. "Fabric needs to breathe," says Wayne Edelman, owner of New York's Meurice Garment Care. "If you don't have cloth bags, hang sheets over garments." Edelman stores his own sweaters in a temperature-controlled vault in acid-free boxes generally used by library and museum preservationists (about $20 each from University Products, www.archivalsuppliers.com).

Avoid wire hangers: they do hideous things to shoulders. Use wide, shaped plastic or wood ones instead. (See The Right Hangers for the best choices for organizing and protecting your clothes.)