All-Clad Stainless Steel Nonstick Round Grill Pan, $100

Choose a Grill Pan If: You have a small kitchen, with little counter space for another appliance but enough ventilation to handle a bit of smoke; you like to use meat juices for sauces (not possible with most grills).

Best For: Thick cuts of meat, like steaks, chicken breasts, and chops — the pan sits directly on a stove burner and gets hotter than the other grill types do.

Why It Won: Other pans tested were too heavy (one weighed in at almost eight pounds!), created enough smoke to set off an alarm, or ripped fish fillets to shreds with ineffectual “nonstick” coatings. The All-Clad weighs just over three pounds, the nonstick claim means what it says, and the ridges are pronounced enough to create good grill marks but shallow enough not to trap and burn grease between them. At 12 inches in diameter, this pan easily fits two large T-bones.

Bonus: The stainless-steel exterior makes the pan a good-looking addition to your pot rack.

To Clean: Let the pan cool for a few minutes. Run it under warm water and brush off bits of food with a plastic-bristled brush. Soak in soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes, then sponge clean.

To Buy: www.allclad.com for store locations.