Two dozen cotton towels (just as absorbent as linen but less expensive) were put to a test based on recommendations from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists: Wash, measure shrinkage, soak, time, remove, measure remaining water. The “brawn” choice is the top performer, the “beauty” a runner-up that’s a winner for good looks.

Waffle Weave: For Spills and Wet Hands

Bumpy waffle-weave towels are the thirstiest, thanks to their two-ply construction (two strands of cotton twisted together). The downside: They tend to shrink much more than plain weaves do after the first wash (the worst-performing one tested lost 5 1/2 inches in width and three in length), so be prepared for some curling edges.

Beauty: Tag Blue Stripe Waffle Weave, $4 (shown, left)
The refined blue (or yellow or black) border stripes give this towel an elegant edge. It’s woven more tightly than its brawnier competitor, meaning less bulk and thus more visual appeal but also less absorption (it absorbed 1 1/2 cups of water) — though still 50 percent more than the best plain weave offers. Another plus: It came out of the wash only an inch shorter than it started out.
Size: 19 by 27 inches.
To Buy: www.surlatable.com for store locations.

Brawn: Now Designs Basket-Weave Teatowel, $3 (shown, right)
This towel outperformed every last competitor by a mile when it came to absorption (it absorbed 3 cups of water) — it’s definitely the one to have in the drawer for all those emergencies that can occur in a kitchen where small children…dine. Shrinkage factor: only 1/2 inch lost in width and an inch in length. The towel comes in 12 stripe-color options (shown above: natural).
Size: 16 by 26 inches.
To Buy: 866-253-9001 for store locations.