Swaddled in burgundy flannel or tarnishing quietly in a wooden chest on the closet floor is the sterling silver your mother insisted you absolutely couldn’t live without. In 1955, maybe. But fast-forward to 2005 and not only have you managed to live without it— exhuming it only when your mother comes for dinner—but you have actually grown to resent it a little. Real silver, you’ve realized, can be a real pain—not to mention really expensive (upwards of $250 a place setting). Which is why you might want to treat yourself to a set of practical, quality stainless steel. Unlike sterling, stainless can be tossed in the dishwasher, it doesn’t need polishing, and it won’t break the bank. Today’s versions are made by the best silver manufacturers in timeless designs that look special at dinner, but not so special that they don’t do lunch.