New Amsterdam Holland is the tulip mecca of the world, its flower markets filled with every imaginable species of the bloom that once bankrupted a generation. But there's more to this tiny redoubt against the North Sea: Stroll miles of Amsterdam's fabled canals; wander its cobblestone streets; discover its museums, bohemian cafes, and rich history.

Flower Power

Aalsmeer Flower Market: More than 15 million cut flowers and plants change hands daily at the world's largest flower auction. Visitors stand on a balcony, over a sea of blooms, and view frantic bidders below. Arrive at 7:30 A.M. to see the action. Legmeerdijk 313, Aalsmeer, six miles south of Amsterdam.

Keukenhof Gardens: Some 7 million tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths bloom here in the spring, saturating 80 acres with vibrant colors and intense scents. Then, in late summer, the dahlias, lilies, and begonias take their turn. Inspired? Experts are on hand to answer questions about your own garden. Stationsweg 166a, Lisse, less than an hour from Amsterdam.

Museums

Rembrandt's House: A new wing houses almost all of the etchings by the painter of Night Watch and the acknowledged master of light and dark. Admission: $5. Jodenbreestraat 4.

Anne Frank House: Anne's pinups of Ginger Rogers, Ray Milland, and Greta Garbo are still on the walls of her secret-attic bedroom. Admission: $5. Prinsengracht 263.

The Rijksmuseum: This museum boasts works by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Jan Steer. Admission: $7.50. Stadhouderskade 42.

Van Gogh Museum: Two hundred paintings and 500 drawings amassed by Vincent van Gogh's art-dealer brother, Theo. Admission: $6.50. Paulus Potterstraat 7.