Look at the Labels

Read the labels on everything. Look for brand-name labels or labels from department stores, Barker-Benfield suggests. Look for quality fabrics, like silk, cashmere, Egyptian cotton, and Irish linen, but pay careful attention. “For example, sometimes there are tricky words used — like cashmink or cashmera — for fabrics don’t have anything to do with cashmere,” she warns.

Inspect for Quality

Inspect the garment carefully by holding it up to the light or by going over it with a magnifying glass to look for spots or stains, says Houtte. And touch everything, she adds. “If a fabric isn’t feeling good in your hands, put it back.” Examine the stitching, making sure it is strong and not flimsy. Look in key places for flaws, Houtte advises. For instance, check the underarms to see that they are in shape and not stained. If there’s a zipper, make sure it works, and notice if it’s metal or plastic. “If it’s metal, the garment is probably older and better-made than one with a plastic zipper,” says Barker-Benfield. Anything with a lining or with extra buttons provided is usually a good-quality garment, says Houtte. Give furs — fake and real — a good shake to make sure they aren’t shedding, Houtte says, and look closely at old wool before buying, because if it has begun to rot, reweaving will be very expensive. Finally, know which flaws are fixable and which are not. “Purse handles are always fixable,” says Houtte. “You can always loop in a vintage belt or beads or a scarf instead.” Rips on seams are fixable, while rips in fabric are much harder to mend. And broken zippers can be tricky to sew back in.

Stick With the Classics

Barker-Benfield says it’s hard to go wrong with classic T-shirts, A-line skirts, wrap dresses, clutches, pumps, and beaded necklaces. Houtte advises to go for anything black; tweed skirts, jackets, and coats; wool, especially if it is by Woolrich or Pendleton; hand knits; cashmere and silk; fur, fake or real; boots; anything alligator, crocodile, or snake skin; and strands of pearls. “Think classic and avoid trendy,” she says. “And save your money for classics like Chanel and Lilly Pulitzer.” Some of your best garments, adds Houtte, are from the 1940s. “They are so durable, especially those classic 1940s suits. They were made with fabrics and workmanship that are outstanding.”