Wendell T. Webber
Knowing just a bit about your plants’ needs will help you keep them out of the dead zone.
Planter
Any container can be a planter as long as it has a drainage hole, so water can exit freely
and roots won’t drown.
Soil
Your best bet is to keep a plant in the soil it came in. If it has done OK up to now, why mess with a good thing?If you do transplant
to a larger or different container, fill it with
the same type of
soil. Succulents and
cacti, for example,
need a sandier mix
(ask for guidance at your plant store).Never use dirt from the yard. It’s too heavy for healthy root growth with a pot-trained plant — and likely to have pests or fungi in it.
Water
Don’t assume a plant needs water because the top of the soil looks dry. The best way to judge is to insert an index finger, up to the first knuckle, into the soil near the rim (so you don’t mess with the roots). If the potting mix feels moist, hold off;
if it’s dry, water away.As a general rule, most houseplants need less water in winter, when they are dormant.
FoodUse an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer with a 1-2-1 ratio (one part nitrogen, two parts phosphorus, one part potassium).Unlike flowering varieties, most foliage plants should not
be fed more than once
a month, and some require feeding only every six months
(ask your plant seller when you buy).Most plants shouldn’t be fed at all during the winter dormancy period.
Pests and Diseases
Before buying a plant, inspect it carefully for whiteflies, spider mites, discoloration, and any other problems while
a salesperson is handy, and ask questions.If you want to play
it safe, keep the plant separate from others you have for two weeks after you bring it home.If a problem develops, call the store and ask how to treat it. If it continues or rapidly accelerates, the simplest route and safest (for your other plants) is to cut your losses, chuck the unfortunate purchase, and start over again. And don’t be too
quick to blame your black thumb: The plant was probably sick
when you bought it.
