Keate

There are more than 500 varieties of tomatoes grown in the United
States. But learning their names and how they taste can be harder
than decoding the wine list at a four-star restaurant. Not only are
there red tomatoes; there are also green, orange, yellow, purple,
and even black ones. There are hybrids (bred for uniform color,
size, and shape) and heirlooms (prized for their unspoiled lineage
and intense flavor and found only in farmer's markets and backyard
gardens). Nutritionally, though, they're all packed with lycopene,
vitamin C, and other antioxidants. In the kitchen, a tomato's size
and shape determine when and how to prepare it.
Beefsteak
The largest tomatoes. Eat them on sandwiches and burgers or on
their own with a sprinkle of kosher salt. The dense flesh resembles
marbled steak, hence the name, and makes for sturdy, meaty slices.
Varieties to try: Better Boy, Big Beef, Big Rainbow, Brandywine (shown),
Evergreen, Mortgage Lifter, Pruden's Purple, St. Pierre.
Cherry
Varying from berry to plum size, cherry tomatoes are great for
snacking, salads, and, when large and plump, roasting.
Varieties to try: Principe Borghese, Red Pear, Sun Gold, Sweet 100,
Sweet Million, Yellow Pear.
Plum
Good all-purpose tomatoes. Slice them for salads or sandwiches or
cook with them. Plum tomatoes have more solid flesh than watery
seeds, which makes them ideal for boiling into sauces and baking.
Knobby plum tomatoes (like Costoluto Genovese) are difficult to
peel, so use them for slicing.
Varieties to try: Amish Paste, La Rossa, San Marzano.
Salad
These seedy tomatoes are generally about half the size of
beefsteaks and have less marbling. The high water content makes
them better for eating raw, cutting into wedges, broiling, and
stuffing.
Varieties to try: Arkansas Traveler, Lemon Boy, Long-Keeper,
Nebraska Wedding, Stupice, Tigrella, Zorba.