Two pros — Monte Loiacono, executive chef at the International House of Pancakes headquarters, in Glendale, California, and Susan Taylor, owner of Sweet Sue's restaurant, in Phoenicia, New York — share the secrets of their success.

1. Mixing
"Carefully measure the ingredients," says Loiacono. And for the airiest cakes, use cold milk and eggs and room-temperature oil. Whisk the three together, then pour the wet ingredients into the dry and mix. "Lumps are good," he says; overbeating leads to flat, tough cakes. After a gentle stir, let the batter sit for about 5 minutes (or as long as the label directions recommend) so the baking soda can do its work.

2. Cooking
Start with a clean, dry griddle or skillet, Taylor advises. (Nonstick is ideal.) Place the pan over medium-high heat and add just enough oil or butter to coat it. When a drop of water "bounces and sizzles" on the cooking surface, reduce the heat to medium, then "use a ladle or a measuring cup to pour out 1/3 to 1⁄2 cup of batter," she says. This will make cakes that are 4 inches in diameter — a manageable size for flipping.

3. Turning
A pancake says "Flip me" when airholes rise to the surface, says Taylor. Loiacono suggests using "a flat-edged, squared-off spatula — it gets underneath the pancake better than a round one." (Be sure to use a Teflon turner to avoid scratching a nonstick pan.) Taylor's technique: "Run the spatula around the underside of the whole pancake to make sure none of it sticks. Then get the cake squarely on the spatula and give it a good, quick flip."

4. Finishing
Once you've turned the pancake, wait about 2 minutes (less when you're making silver dollars) to check for doneness. Taylor suggests pressing lightly on the center with a spoon — not too hard or you'll deflate your cake. "If it feels mushy, it needs a little more time," she says. Then scoop it up with the spatula and serve. (Covered in foil, pancakes can be kept warm in the oven on its lowest setting for up to 15 minutes. After that, they get doughy.)