Though orchids are commonly perceived to be fussy and delicate, some are much simpler to care for than others. The phalaenopsis, or moth orchid, is the most commonly grown houseplant in the orchid family because it is the easiest to grow at home and also the most rewarding. "Phalaenopsis are not fragile tropical beauties," says Ellen Zachos, an instructor at the New York Botanical Garden and author of Orchid Growing for Wimps, $18, www.amazon.com.

All orchids — and there are thousands of species — bloom annually, though the length of the blooming season varies. The moth orchid's blooming period lasts two to three months, and sometimes as long as nine. While some other orchids have one or two blooms per stem, it is not unusual for a moth orchid to have eight or nine. All these factors make it Real Simple's orchid of choice, even for the least-green thumb on the block.

Caring for Moth Orchids
Unlike some of its fussy cousins that have very specific temperature and humidity requirements, the moth orchid adapts to different household environments. It likes the same temperature, humidity, and light conditions that human beings find comfortable indoors.

Containers
Most orchids are grown and shipped in plastic containers because they're light and inexpensive. If you're neglectful of watering schedules, plastic might be the choice for you, as it retains moisture better than clay or ceramic. Unsightly plastic containers can always be slipped into more attractive pots for show. If you're prone to overwatering, opt for terra-cotta, which dries quickly and encourages root growth because its porous nature allows air to reach the roots. The pot shown above is an eight-inch standard terracotta pot (about $4.50 at garden centers).

Potting Materials
Unlike most houseplants, orchids should not be set in moisture-retaining potting soil. The moth orchid is an epiphyte, meaning that in its natural habitat it grows above the ground, attached to a tree trunk or branch, absorbing necessary nutrients and humidity from the air around it. Thus, these drought-resistant orchids are planted in coarse and quick-draining potting mixes containing tree bark, fern fiber, perlite, or sphagnum moss. Pine bark is the most popular potting material for orchids because it is inexpensive, easy to work with, and promotes much-needed air circulation to the roots. Use any bark mix of medium coarseness or a special mix, like Better-Gro professional phalaenopsis mix ($4.50), which is sold at home-improvement and gardening centers.

Temperature
The moth orchid thrives in daytime temperatures as high as the mid-80s (Fahrenheit) and a nighttime temperature not below 65 degrees. Orchids like a difference of at least 10 degrees between their day and nighttime temperatures.

Light Levels
Moth orchids prefer bright indirect or filtered light. An eastern windowsill will provide sufficient light. If the plant is placed near a south- or west-facing window, it should be protected from the sun by a sheer curtain. In north-facing windows, the moth orchid will need supplementary light from fluorescent bulbs to bloom. Yellow leaves may be an indication of too much light, while dark green leaves are an indication of too little. A healthy moth orchid has medium green foliage.

Watering, Feeding, and Humidity
As a general rule, the moth orchid should get sufficient moisture when watered every five to seven days. During the blooming season (November to April), prepare a water-soluble fertilizer and feed the plant. Do this during the regular weekly watering. Cut back to a monthly feeding when the plant is not in bloom. A white residue on the pot's rim can be an indication of overfeeding. Experts advise using half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the label. Try Zuma Canyon Orchids' fertilizer ($5 for one pound, 310-457-9771).

A good watering method is to soak the orchid in a sinkful of water. Because orchids are planted in bark and other coarse mediums, water isn't retained the way it is by regular potting soil, and it simply runs right through. This method is most effective when plants are potted in terra-cotta or some other porous material. Mix fertilizer with the water before submerging the pot to its rim and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Then let the orchid drain in the sink completely before putting it back in its saucer. Be careful not to let the plants sit in stagnant water, where harmful bacteria and diseases are bred.

If your home is extremely dry and warm (these conditions are often exacerbated by heating systems in the winter and airconditioning in the summer), you may need to create a humidity tray to give your orchid the moisture it needs. Fill a tray with pebbles, leaving about 1/4 inch of room at the top, then cover the pebbles with water. Place the pot on the pebbles. As the water evaporates, the humidity will be raised around the plant.

Pruning
Moth orchids need to be pruned annually to encourage regrowth. Once the prime blooming season ends (usually around February), it's time to prepare the plants so they are ready to do it all over again come fall. A few weeks after the last flower has wilted and fallen off, the plant should be cut at the second joint, or node, from the bottom of the stem. There's a 60 percent chance of seeing regrowth within a few weeks, but if not, the plant will bloom again the following fall. Cut at a slight angle, using sharp pruning shears, such those on the previous page.

Repotting
A moth orchid outgrows its container in one to three years, but it should be repotted only after flowering. First, line the new pot's bottom with Styrofoam peanuts or shards of terra-cotta. Then lift the orchid's roots out of their present container, taking care to gently loosen any roots that cling to the inside. Hold the bare-rooted plant over the new pot, then lower the roots into the pot. Be careful not to force them; they need air movement, and crowding them can be harmful to the plant. Drop medium-grade bark mix into the pot until you reach the point where the stem begins. Firm down the mix and your orchid has been successfully repotted. Once that's done, you'll need to support the plant's blooms by loosely tying the middle part of the stem to a metal or wooden stake with twine.

Once you get the hang of caring for orchids, you may have a family heirloom on your hands: Some orchids can live for 150 years.