Once you've secured your home's front and back doors and the windows, look for other points of vulnerability. Because homeowners so often overlook safeguarding them, attached garages and sliding doors that open onto patios and balconies are favorite points of entry for intruders.

Garage/Toolshed

Security padlock: If you don't have a self-locking automatic garage door, a case-hardened steel padlock is an effective fix. Get one with a shackle (the U-shaped locking part) of at least 9/32 inch, and use a case-hardened steel hasp (attached to the door a foot or so from the ground). If the garage has a door that leads directly into the house, secure it from the inside with a dead bolt.
To buy: Master Lock 2 1/2-inch Padlock, $28, www.acehardware.com.
Installation time: 40 minutes.

Sliding Door

Locking bar: The standard locks that come with sliding doors are easy to pry open. Use a locking bar (or a wooden dowel) to keep the door from being forced open.
If there is too much space between a sliding door and its upper track, the door can be picked up, tilted outward, and removed — just like a sliding shower door. Install screws along the inside of the upper track, leaving just enough room for the door to slide, and the door can no longer be lifted out.
To buy: Mag Security Sliding Patio Door Bar, $17, www.acehardware.com.
Installation time: 20 minutes.

Doors With Knobs

Door jammer: Perfect for a hotel room or a rented apartment or house with iffy locks (in 2002, renters were burglarized at a slightly higher rate than owners), the DavieBar door jammer is essentially a door stopper on a stick. It looks like a footed cane, with a top that hooks under the doorknob and a base that grips the floor, preventing your door from being forced inward. The DavieBar is easy to use and fits in a suitcase.
To buy: DavieBar, $27, www.addedtouchstore.com.
Installation time: Less than a minute (to adjust the length).