Not only does a table just for children carry the unhappy whiff of meals taken in the nursery— it also blows the best civilizing opportunity of the year. How else are children going to learn to tuck their elbows in, manage a knife and fork, or learn to chat about world affairs between bites except in the company of well-disposed adults doing the same? Of course, they'll grow restless sooner than their elders. That's why they've been trained to ask politely during a lull in the conversation, "May we be excused until dessert?" The answer is yes.

To keep them happily occupied, lay out a supply of board and tile games on the living-room rug for them to play. The novelty will keep them engaged— until dessert. Our favorite game? Sorry! ($15, www.etoys.com).