Topping coals with hardwood chips, such as hickory, oak, apple, or cherry, adds old-fashioned barbecue flavor to food.

Charcoal: Place about one cup of chips that have been soaking in water for one hour on each mound of charcoal, then cover the grill. For prolonged cooking, of a brisket, turkey, or other large piece of meat, add fresh charcoal and chips every hour.

Gas: Most high-end models have a separate smoker box-a metal tray or box that holds chips directly over a burner. If your grill is equipped that way, add the chips and run the smoker-box burner on high until you see smoke.

If you don't have a smoker box, make your own smoker pouch following these steps:

1. Place one to two cups of soaked wood chips on a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil.

2. Make a pouch, folding over the edges twice to form a seal.

3. Poke a few holes in the top with a pencil or knife to allow the smoke to escape.

4. Place the smoker pouch under the grate and directly over one of the burners. Run the grill on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to the desired temperature.