If you're going to eat bacon, you want to make every strip count. Which brands are worth the splurge?

THE WINNER

BOAR'S HEAD SLICED BACON, $3 a pound
Everything bacon should be: smoky but not overwhelming, with a complex pork flavor and the right amount of salt. It also has an ideal fat-to-meat ratio, so it cooks up evenly and, if you like, potato-chip crispy.

Fat (per ounce): 12 grams.
Sodium (per ounce): 380 milligrams.

THE RUNNER-UP

OSCAR MAYER BACON, $5 a pound
Slightly sweet and just a little smoky, this brand cooks up thick instead of shatter-crunchy — a minus for those who like their bacon brittle. The pliable meatiness is, however, ideal for a BLT.

Fat: 12 grams.
Sodium: 580 milligrams.

SIX DEGREES OF BACON: THE ALTERNATIVES
Whether you're trying to avoid nitrates, fat, or even meat itself, there's an egg-worthy bacon at your supermarket. (All fat and sodium content here is per ounce.)

PRECOOKED

OSCAR MAYER READY TO SERVE BACON, $3 for 2.1 ounces

Good, meaty flavor — a viable (if more expensive) option when cooking bacon is too much trouble.
Bacon-and-eggs factor: Heat thoroughly before serving it with morning eggs; otherwise the flabby texture won't cut it. It's best crumbled on salads, layered on sandwiches, or used in any other dish that doesn't require hot, just-cooked bacon.
Fat:10 grams.
Sodium: 440 milligrams.

NITRATE-FREE

HEALTH IS WEALTH 100% NATURALLY HICKORY SMOKED UNCURED SLICED BACON, $5 for 12 ounces

Nitrate-free bacon is usually a drab, unappetizing brown. This is pinker and doesn't taste overly salty. (Salt is often added to nitrate-free bacon to make up for the lack of other preservatives.) It's meaty, savory, and slightly spicy.
Bacon-and-eggs factor: Terrific with eggs any style. Or try it on salads and in sandwiches.
Fat: 14 grams.
Sodium: 760 milligrams.

VEGETARIAN

YVES CANADIAN VEGGIE BACON, $3 for 6 ounces

This soy-protein product is nearly fat-free, but the flavor is well balanced between sweetness, salt, and smoke--even if the slightly rubbery texture is more reminiscent of fried vegetarian bologna than bacon.
Bacon-and-eggs factor: Best for eggs Benedict--the round slices fit perfectly on an English muffin.
Fat: 3/4 gram.
Sodium: 350 milligrams.

TURKEY

LOUIS RICH TURKEY BACON, $3 for 12 ounces

The best of the turkey bacons we tasted, this looks like pork and fries up to a texture somewhere between chewy and crispy (and that's good--especially considering it has half the fat of regular bacon).
Bacon-and-eggs factor: This is best with more jazzed-up egg dishes, like scrambled eggs with cheese or onions. Or use it in a recipe calling for pork bacon, such as collard greens or quiche.
Fat: 6 grams.
Sodium: 340 milligrams.

LEAN

OSCAR MAYER CENTER CUT BACON, $5.25 for 12 ounces

Though it's 30 percent leaner than regular bacon, the deep flavor is nearly as good. You won't notice a difference unless you taste it alongside the real stuff.
Bacon-and-eggs factor: Works with eggs any style for a traditional, slightly more healthful morning treat.
Fat: 8 grams.
Sodium: 540 milligrams.

ORGANIC

LIGHTLIFE ORGANIC SMOKY TEMPEH STRIPS (a.k.a. Fakin' Bacon), $2.50 for 6 ounces

With its soft texture, this product will never be mistaken for the real thing. But it has a delicious smoked flavor when it first hits the tongue, which makes up for the tart finish.
Bacon-and-eggs factor: A must with a tofu scramble. Best when made into a Reuben-style sandwich or tossed into potato salad.
Fat:1 1/4 grams.
Sodium: 115 milligrams.