Salt. You throw it into the spaghetti pot, onto an icy sidewalk,
over your shoulder on a superstitious day. Salt is just salt,
right? Wrong. There's a whole world of savory grains beyond iodized
table salt. Shirley Corriher, an Atlanta-based food scientist and a
certified culinary professional, calls specialty varieties like
kosher salt and fleur de sel "the snowflakes of the salt world."
These unique salts melt fast on the tongue, adding a spike of
flavor to food.
Real Simple rounded up some of the different salts
you'll find in supermarkets and gourmet shops and asked cooks how
to use them.
Specialty salts come in a variety of textures and tastes, and from
a number of sources. Their roles in the kitchen range from soup
seasoner to fresh-fruit topper to ice cream-making assistant. Here,
a sampling of easy-to-find salts, with tips on when and where to
use them.
KOSHER SALTUse It for: All cooking. Kosher salt dissolves fast, and its flavor
disperses quickly, so chefs recommend tossing it on everything from
pork roast to popcorn.
Origin: Either the sea or the earth. Widely sold brands include
Morton and Diamond Crystal, which are made using different methods.
Kosher salt got its name because its craggy crystals make it
perfect for curing meat a step in the koshering process.
Texture: Coarse. Cooks prize crystals like these; their roughness
makes it easy to pinch a perfect amount.
To Buy: Look in your local supermarket. Kosher salts cost about $1
a pound. If you don't mind a few clumps, buy Diamond Crystal; it
has no anticaking agents, which can leave a chemical aftertaste.
CRYSTALLINE SEA SALTUse It for: Adding a pungent burst of flavor to just-cooked foods.
These crystals will complement anything from a fresh salad to a
salmon fillet.
Origin: Coasts from Portugal to Maine, California to the Pacific
Rim.
Texture: Fine or coarse. The size of the irregular crystals affects
how fast the salt dissolves. It varies in color, depending on the
minerals it contains (iron-rich red clay, for example, gives
Hawaiian sea salt a pinkish hue). These natural impurities can add
subtly briny, sweet, or even bitter flavors to the salts.
To Buy: Check gourmet shops or on-line (
www.thestoreforcooks.com stocks Hawaiian sea salt). Expect to pay $2 to $15 or more a
pound. Many markets sell La Baleine, a relatively inexpensive brand
($3 for 26.5 ounces).
FLAKED SEA SALT Use It for: Bringing a complex flavor to steamed vegetables or
shellfish. Take a pinch, crush the crystals between your
fingertips, and let them fall on freshly cooked food. This salt
will add a hint of briny flavor.
Origin: England's Essex coast is where the most popular brand,
Maldon, is harvested.
Texture: Soft, sheer, pyramid-like flakes. This is the
fastest-dissolving of all of the salt grains.
To Buy: Search specialty-food stores and the Internet. You’ll pay $6 for 8.5 ounces at
www.chefshop.com.
FLEUR DE SEL Use It for: A special-occasion table salt. Spoon it into a salt
cellar to be pinched, then sprinkled over food just before eating.
Delicately flavored, it adds a perfect hint of saltiness to freshly
sliced tomato or melon.
Origin: Coastal salt ponds in France. The caviar of sea salt, fleur
de sel is hand harvested. Conditions have to be just right (lots of
sun and wind) for it to "bloom" like a flower on the surface of the
water.
Texture: Crystalline, which means that fleur de sel melts slowly in
the mouth. Its earthy, pleasing flavor lingers on the tongue.
To Buy: Search specialty-food stores and the Internet (try
www.chefshop.com). From $11 for 4.4 ounces to $45 for 35 ounces.
ROCK SALTUse It for: Making ice cream and deicing. Rock salt is paired with
ice in old-fashioned hand-cranked ice cream makers to regulate the
temperature. You can also use it to deice your sidewalks and
driveway in the winter months.
Origin: Mined from deposits in the earth, rock salt is not sold for
use directly on food. It's usually packaged in an organic,
unprocessed form.
Texture: Large, chunky, nonuniform crystals. Minerals and other
harmless impurities can give it a grayish color.
To Buy: It's sold in supermarkets and hardware and home stores for
less than $1 a pound.
PICKLING SALTUse It for: Brining pickles and sauerkraut. It will also brine a
turkey, but beware: Pickling salt is far more concentrated than the
more commonly used kosher salt, so you'll need to use less.
Origin: Like table salt, pickling salt may come from the earth or
the sea. But unlike table salt, it isn't fortified with iodine (a
nutritional need for humans) and doesn't contain anticaking
chemicals, both of which would turn pickles an unappetizing color.
Virtually 100 percent sodium chloride, it's the purest of salts.
Texture: This variety is fine grained, like table salt.
To Buy: Many supermarkets sell it in large boxes or bags, but it
can be hard to find in cities. It costs less than $1 a pound.