Nonstick aluminum is the unsung hero of cookware. It's not especially pretty, not really pedigreed, but you most likely use it all the time because it's versatile and easy to clean.

HOW TO IDENTIFY: A nonstick aluminum pan has a dark gray interior coating (Teflon is the best known) that feels slightly waxy to the touch.
Pictured: 12 1/2-inch Jamie Oliver Ultimate saute pan for T-Fal, $60, www.t-falusa.com for store locations. Its red Thermo-Spot alerts you when the pan is the right temperature.

WHEN TO USE: Nonstick cookware is best for dishes that otherwise require masterful spatula wielding — pancakes, omelettes, crepes, delicate fish — and recipes that don't call for a lot of oil or butter. (Note: Dishes cooked in stockpots, saucepans, and Dutch ovens generally require the use of fat for browning, so there is no point in owning a nonstick version of any of these.)

WHEN NOT TO USE: This is not the pan for browning meat. No matter how hot the pan gets, it will never give the sauteed meat those burned brown bits that make a sauce taste so good.

HOW TO CLEAN: With warm, soapy water and no abrasives. If you stack nonstick cookware, place a paper towel between each pot to guard against damage. To prevent scratches, never use metal utensils when cooking.