Question:

When you add salt during cooking, why can’t you taste it later?

Answer:

When added during the cooking process, salt is absorbed into the food, seasoning it internally, says Shirley Corriher, a food scientist and the author of CookWise, (Morrow Cookbooks, $30, www.amazon.com). Different foods absorb different amounts of salt, depending on how porous the food is and the amount of time it is cooked. For example, pasta and rice absorb more salt than green beans because they are more porous and in contact with salted water longer.

Recipes call for the addition of salt during cooking for several reasons. Salt’s main function is to enhance flavor, though it should be added carefully. As water evaporates and the juices reduce, the flavor of salt intensifies, so you could end up with a dish that’s too salty. Added to brines and marinades, salt keeps foods moist and flavorful.

Food that is seasoned internally during the cooking process tastes different from food that is salted on the plate, says Corriher. If you want to cut back on sodium consumption, some chefs recommend omitting salt from the cooking stages and adding it to taste at the table. If you choose to eliminate salt from your diet altogether, try seasoning your finished meal with a dash of lemon juice or vinegar.

Many chefs use different types of salt at different stages of preparing a dish. Kosher salt is popular for the cooking process because it dissolves quickly into water and sauces. Table salt is another option, though it contains added iodine and anticaking ingredients, like calcium silicate, which some people feel creates a slightly more chemical taste than the kosher variety.

For finishing dishes, recipes occasionally call for sea salt, which has a coarser texture and a distinctive mineral quality. A little goes a long way in adding flavor, which is good, since sea salt can cost anywhere from a few dollars a pound to more than $30, depending on where the salt was harvested. If sea salt isn’t an option, try a pinch of kosher salt instead.

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