Makeup
Eyes
A shimmery taupe shadow is a good choice for any woman, says Tina Turnbow, a New York City makeup artist: “Dark brown is too dark for someone fair, but taupe looks pretty, and on a black person, it even highlights the eyes.” Bronzy browns have a similar effect, says New York– and Los Angeles–based makeup artist Pati Dubroff. And sheer shadows are the most universally flattering formula of all, says Meredith McGann, a makeup artist in San Francisco and the cofounder of Passport Cosmetics. Opaque and matte shadows are often harder to wear, because the denser the color, the more skin tone-specific it is. If you like dark shadows or liners, try sheer emeralds, midnight blues, plums, and even purples, which flatter all skin colors because they have a balance of warm and cool undertones, says Rebecca Restrepo, a New York City makeup artist for the Contact Agency. “These shades have a panty-hose–like effect,” she says. “They allow your skin to shine through.” Another benefit: “Eye makeup that has blue in it makes the whites of your eyes appear brighter,” says Turnbow.
Cheeks
Universally flattering blushes all have one thing in common, whether they come in powder, cream, gel, or stain formulations: “They reflect light and add color to the face,” says Susan Sterling, an international makeup artist for Chanel Beauté. “These blushes soften the lines of your face, giving it not a shine, but a glow.” As with all-for-one eye shadows, sheerness is the key to a never-fail blush. When choosing shades, look for warmer tones that better complement the skin’s undertones: apricot instead of peach, and pinks that are closer to fuchsia than shell. “Even if you’re pale, go for a slightly warmer tone to cancel out any redness in your skin,” suggests Kelley Quan, a makeup artist in New York City. Keep in mind that with blush, you don’t have to play it safe with shade choices — vibrant colors can also be versatile. Translucent bright pink can, surprisingly, be used by anyone, says Kerry Malouf, a makeup artist in Los Angeles and the cosmetic creative director of Jouer, a new line whose products are designed to be worn on any skin tone. “But be careful when a blush is too beige,” warns Quan. “If it’s absent of color, it doesn’t look very good on the skin.”
Lips
Sure, neutral lip colors work on most skin types, but you can treat yourself to brighter shades as long as the texture isn’t too matte. Iridescent glosses and transparent lip stains are the most flattering formulations. Don’t be scared off by a gloss that looks Ferrari red in the tube. “Glosses and stains always look much stronger in color inside the packaging,” says Sterling. But on the lips a sheer, shimmery color — whether it’s Schiaparelli pink or Coke-can red — will add just a hint of color.
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