Look at the label: Pay particular attention to the percentage of cacao, says Sally Schneider, author of A New Way to Cook (Artisan, $25, www.amazon.com). For the best flavor, use chocolates that are at least 70 percent cacao. “When you get to 70 percent, you get this deep, resonant flavor of the chocolate itself, and you can taste hints of other flavors, like fruit, coffee, and cognac,” Schneider says. In addition to adding depth of flavor to a dish, “fine chocolates add creaminess and moistness to baked goods.” Another important ingredient to look for in a chocolate: real vanilla. “The great chocolate makers use real vanilla — not vanillin, which is an artificial flavoring,” Schneider points out. “Real vanilla amplifies the flavor of chocolate. If they are using vanillin, it tips me off that they are cutting corners,” she says. Chocolates that contain corn syrup instead of sugar also indicate low quality. A good rule of thumb: The fewer ingredients on the label, the higher quality the chocolate. “There shouldn’t be much more than chocolate, vanilla, and sugar on the label,” says Schneider.
Keep it fresh: If chocolate is wrapped tightly in plastic and stored in a dry, dark place between 60 and 70 degrees, it will keep well for several months. After that, it will still be usable for up to a year, but the texture will be drier and the flavor will wane, says Schneider. She discourages storing chocolate in the refrigerator. If the chocolate is not properly wrapped, moisture and the cold can diminish the flavor, turn the texture dry and grainy, and affect the way the chocolate melts. But chocolate can be refrigerated or even frozen, as long as it is properly sealed: Roll the chocolate in several layers of plastic wrap and place it in an airtight container to prevent condensation. Defrost at room temperature without unwrapping.
Try these brands: Schneider recommends Valrhona and Scharffen Berger as the best chocolates for baking and eating. They can be found at specialty groceries, chocolatiers, and www.chocosphere.com. Schneider also recommends Lindt, another widely available brand.
How to Upgrade Your Vanilla
Buy the bean:“Vanilla beans are expensive,” says Schneider, who says they can run as high as $6 apiece. “So I use them in desserts only where I want a pure vanilla flavor.” She compares the pure vanilla bean to a truffle, saying, “it enhances and boosts whatever it is near.” To use the bean properly, split it open and scrape out the flavorful seeds.
Examine the extract: Vanilla extract is made of vanilla beans that have been steeped in a solution of alcohol and water. It makes a fine substitute for vanilla bean in many cases but is not as flavorful in all recipes, says Schneider: “In recipes where extract is exposed to the open air, such as Vanilla-Roasted Pears, it would just evaporate in the oven.” She suggests using the bean in these instances. “But using vanilla extract in baked goods, in a batter, is fine,” says Schneider, who warns that buyers should beware of extracts that contain vanillin. “That means it does not have real vanilla.” And taste will tell: Extract with vanillin has a much harsher flavor than extract made with real vanilla.
Keep it fresh: When you buy vanilla beans, they should be moist and pliable and have an oily sheen. At home, “keep them in the vial they come in, take the extra precaution of wrapping them in a plastic bag with the air pushed out, and store them in your spice drawer,” says Schneider. If well wrapped, vanilla beans will keep 4 to 5 months.
Try these brands: For extract, Schneider prefers Nielsen-Massey Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla, which can be found in specialty groceries or online at www.williams-sonoma.com. For beans, Schneider recommends pods from Madagascar and Mexico, which can be found at www.penzeys.com.
How to Upgrade Your Cream
Try crème fraîche: Crème fraîche is simply cultured heavy cream. It has just about the same number of calories as whipped cream and whips like heavy cream, but it has a denser texture and a more complex flavor. “It has the loveliness of sweet cream with a slightly tangy, nutty undertone,” Schneider says, adding that crème fraîche is not only for desserts. “It can add a sophisticated element to savory foods, like a cream soup or fish stew,” she says.
Examine the label: The only thing that should be on a crème fraîche label is heavy cream and culture, says Schneider.
Keep it fresh: Crème fraîche can last anywhere from 1 to 2 months, while other kinds of cream may last only a couple of weeks, says Schneider. Keep it in its container in the refrigerator to store; toss it when you see mold or if it smells cheesy instead of creamy.
Try these brands: Look for crème fraîche that is imported from France, Schneider suggests. If you can’t find it, she recommends the Vermont Butter & Cheese Company’s crème fraîche, which is widely available in grocery stores or can be found at www.vtbutterandcheeseco.com.
