How to Pick the Right Pan for the Task

Copper

The king of conductors and the doyen of durability, copper is what the professionals use. But unless you have access to a wholesale source or a Swiss bank account, the cost is prohibitive. (Copper cookware costs about 50 percent more than the highest-quality stainless.)

How to identify: They're the beautiful pinkish orange pots that are―let's be honest―most likely tarnished and tucked away because they were so hard to keep clean. The pots' interiors are usually lined with tin or stainless steel, because pure copper is a reactive metal.

When to use: Professional chefs like copper because it heats up and cools down so efficiently―crucial for making delicate sauces. But for mere mortals more interested in simple dishes than simple syrup, copper holds no dramatic advantage over stainless or aluminum.

When not to use: While copper is a wonderful heat conductor, it's a horrible insulator: When the burner is off, it doesn't retain heat, so don't use it for foods that need to sit on the stove and stay warm.

How to clean: Clean copper cookware with copper polish whenever it turns blueish or dark with oxidation. Perfectionists and nonperfectionists alike should know that using a tarnished copper pot has no effect on the food made in it. For regular cleaning, use soap and a sponge (not the dishwasher).